Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 218936 times)

atomsk · « **Reply #450 on:** February 17, 2021, 08:45:13 AM »

hello I have an issue with the home button. After replacing one of the analogue sticks and without removing the power board at all the home button is not registering anymore. It lights up but it doesn't do anything when pressing it , it won't turn off or turn on the controller. The controller is working fine if i connect it to the USB power cord and then remove it again (with batteries on off course). Have you got any ideas on where i should look if i messed anything up with desoldering ?. The strange thing is that i haven't touched the power board or the home button at all.

just a quick note, i'm testing this with one analogue stick on board at the moment as i removed the other one because i'm waiting for the replacement part. Not sure if this is related to the issue I have with the home button.

xh0st · « **Reply #451 on:** February 18, 2021, 11:17:21 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 16, 2021, 02:43:13 PM

A blurry image of a portion of the board doesn't really help. You have C11 bridged, remove that as well as the bridge at C12 or it's not going to work correctly to find the issue. R28 goes from Q9p3 to Ground and is not installed.

Hey, can you please give me some advice. I don't have any solution. The controller stoped working on battery, won't start att all, when pressing the guide button is light up, and if keep pressing it's flashing. I have swapped the mcu board to my other working controller and didn't turn on. Now both controller's are not turning on.

Update: The good working controller it's back after connected by cable to console.
The not working controller back where I was on the fault with the guide button after connected to cable. I have removed the bridge between C11 and R25 and solder jumper wires from battery terminals to microusb port. The controller is working but it's not showing the battery procentage just show full.

xh0st · « **Reply #452 on:** February 18, 2021, 01:08:34 PM »

Quote from: atomsk on February 17, 2021, 08:45:13 AM

hello I have an issue with the home button. After replacing one of the analogue sticks and without removing the power board at all the home button is not registering anymore. It lights up but it doesn't do anything when pressing it , it won't turn off or turn on the controller. The controller is working fine if i connect it to the USB power cord and then remove it again (with batteries on off course). Have you got any ideas on where i should look if i messed anything up with desoldering ?. The strange thing is that i haven't touched the power board or the home button at all.

just a quick note, i'm testing this with one analogue stick on board at the moment as i removed the other one because i'm waiting for the replacement part. Not sure if this is related to the issue I have with the home button.

Check ✅ that area.

RDC · « **Reply #453 on:** February 18, 2021, 03:48:02 PM »

Quote from: xh0st on February 18, 2021, 11:17:21 AM

Hey, can you please give me some advice. I don't have any solution. The controller stoped working on battery, won't start att all, when pressing the guide button is light up, and if keep pressing it's flashing. I have swapped the mcu board to my other working controller and didn't turn on. Now both controller's are not turning on.

Update: The good working controller it's back after connected by cable to console.
The not working controller back where I was on the fault with the guide button after connected to cable. I have removed the bridge between C11 and R25 and solder jumper wires from battery terminals to microusb port. The controller is working but it's not showing the battery procentage just show full.

Full size blurry image of one side, also not very useful.

The best advice that I can honestly give, is that you stop randomly connecting things together trying to make it work before it's ruined for good and never will.

Full is all of the percentage, and I have no idea what you expect it to show you having it all cross wired like that, it'll be the magic smoke before long, if it hasn't already ran off while you weren't looking that is.

You can not use the USB 5v as the AA battery source like that, and where you even came up with that idea boggles my mind on multiple levels. First, putting 5v into the AA+ terminal that was designed for 2 x AA voltage (1.5v x 2 = 3v) should not be done. Second, connecting the USB ground to the AA ground is redundant, as they are already connected on the board, so that wire is doing nothing at all.

The controller knows there is 5v there and it will run from that instead of trying to run form the AA source. Power the board correctly and look for the only issue(s) that it actually has, not problems that you are creating on top of it. If you don't have a bench supply for making a 3v source to act like the AA batteries, then get a 2AA battery holder and solder that on there, if you don't have access to that then use 2 AA batteries, some wire and tape them together to make one.

Since I can not make it out from the pics, what did you put in place of Q9?

atomsk · « **Reply #454 on:** February 19, 2021, 12:45:06 AM »

Quote from: xh0st on February 18, 2021, 01:08:34 PM

Check ✅ that area.

hey , thanks for your reply

, i've been looking in the area you mentioned and I did notice that D27 is missing

not sure how this happened. Do you think i should simply wire it ?

RDC · « **Reply #455 on:** February 19, 2021, 12:46:15 AM »

No, put a Diode in there.

atomsk · « **Reply #456 on:** February 19, 2021, 12:48:00 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 19, 2021, 12:46:15 AM

No, put a Diode in there.

but where do i find one ?

RDC · « **Reply #457 on:** February 19, 2021, 01:09:30 AM »

That one is around there somewhere.

There are piles of places online to order components, DigiKey, Mouser, etc., or pick up another broken controller or board somewhere. Just about any Diode would work. I'd toss a 1N4148 in there, SOD-323 package.

xh0st · « **Reply #458 on:** February 19, 2021, 03:10:43 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 18, 2021, 03:48:02 PM

Full size blurry image of one side, also not very useful.

The best advice that I can honestly give, is that you stop randomly connecting things together trying to make it work before it's ruined for good and never will.

Full is all of the percentage, and I have no idea what you expect it to show you having it all cross wired like that, it'll be the magic smoke before long, if it hasn't already ran off while you weren't looking that is.

You can not use the USB 5v as the AA battery source like that, and where you even came up with that idea boggles my mind on multiple levels. First, putting 5v into the AA+ terminal that was designed for 2 x AA voltage (1.5v x 2 = 3v) should not be done. Second, connecting the USB ground to the AA ground is redundant, as they are already connected on the board, so that wire is doing nothing at all.

The controller knows there is 5v there and it will run from that instead of trying to run form the AA source. Power the board correctly and look for the only issue(s) that it actually has, not problems that you are creating on top of it. If you don't have a bench supply for making a 3v source to act like the AA batteries, then get a 2AA battery holder and solder that on there, if you don't have access to that then use 2 AA batteries, some wire and tape them together to make one.

Since I can not make it out from the pics, what did you put in place of Q9?

Ok. I have stoped doing stupid testing. Q9 i have swapped from another working controller (it's messed because j have managed to rip 2 pads) I have make a 3v power supply and tested on TP35 on battery i don't have voltage! On cable i have 3,3v on TP35 i have looked at traces and goes to U 4 (C28,C45)

xh0st · « **Reply #459 on:** February 19, 2021, 03:13:32 AM »

Quote from: xh0st on February 19, 2021, 03:10:43 AM

Ok. I have stoped doing stupid testing. Q9 i have swapped from another working controller (it's messed because j have managed to rip 2 pads) I have make a 3v power supply and tested on TP35 on battery i don't have voltage 0,011! On cable i have 3,3v on TP35 i have looked at traces and goes to U 4 (C28,C45)

RDC · « **Reply #460 on:** February 19, 2021, 03:22:17 AM »

On USB power TP35 is always 3.3v

On AA power there will be no voltage on TP35 until the Guide button is pressed.

atomsk · « **Reply #461 on:** February 19, 2021, 03:57:52 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 19, 2021, 01:09:30 AM

That one is around there somewhere.

There are piles of places online to order components, DigiKey, Mouser, etc., or pick up another broken controller or board somewhere. Just about any Diode would work. I'd toss a 1N4148 in there, SOD-323 package.

ok i've ordered some of those 1N4148s

xh0st · « **Reply #462 on:** February 19, 2021, 05:00:54 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 19, 2021, 03:22:17 AM

On USB power TP35 is always 3.3v

On AA power there will be no voltage on TP35 until the Guide button is pressed.

Fixed !! Broken trace on R 7

RDC · « **Reply #463 on:** February 19, 2021, 05:12:36 AM »

Shocker.

xh0st · « **Reply #464 on:** February 19, 2021, 05:45:04 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 19, 2021, 05:12:36 AM

Shocker.

what do you mean with shocker?

RDC · « **Reply #465 on:** February 19, 2021, 05:49:49 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 15, 2021, 02:40:29 PM

@ xh0st - Issue is most likely on the Power OK line somewhere. R7, D26 or the trace from J1p9 to R7, D26, Q9.

xh0st · « **Reply #466 on:** February 19, 2021, 06:21:03 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 19, 2021, 05:49:49 AM

Big thanks for your help! I haven't been able to fixit without you! Now I will take it easy with modification!

pad123 · « **Reply #467 on:** April 07, 2021, 04:26:39 PM »

Hello, I have a problem with the pad 1708.
no response to usb power and batteries.
listed u1 u2 u3
on j1 on pin 12 is 5V
nothing gets hot I don't know where to look for the problem

RDC · « **Reply #468 on:** April 08, 2021, 06:55:31 AM »

If you have 5v then U1 should be outputting 3v. Check the schematic and look around U1 for anything missing, D23, L2 etc.

Crzy_R6_rider · « **Reply #469 on:** April 11, 2021, 01:31:54 AM »

So I have a question I recently bought an led mod for my
Girls controller. however instead of using the board it came with that's supposed to turn it on via shaking the controller I want to wire it to the main board so as to have them light when the controller is turned on, and off per shutting off. I have a decent amount of experience in this stuff but I am no expert. My idea was to wire it in along with the power buttons led?

RDC · « **Reply #470 on:** April 12, 2021, 05:35:34 PM »

It completely depends on how the LED board for that thing is setup. If ti's designed to get 3.3v and ground connected to it, then just has an enable line to turn the LEDs on off, then yes. If you need a negative signal to turn them on, then you can use the Cathode side of the Guide LED and the new LEDs will mimic it. If you need a positive signal then you can use the Base of Q3. Again, those are only for a control signal, those are not to be used as power sources for driving who knows how many LEDs.

If the LEDs are just LEDs and their current limiting Resistors, then you need to wire them to either the 3.3v or 3.5v spots in the controller, as those are a switched power source, and even then a pile of LEDs shouldn't be wired up to those unless they are each drawing jack for current.

bacaw · « **Reply #471 on:** April 18, 2021, 09:37:36 AM »

Hi,

I've got the following board, with R26, R28, D27 that need replacing. Do you know the values for them?

D27 - 1N4148 will prob work (according to a previous comment)
R26 - ?
R28 - ?

The board looks different to the schematic in https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201708%20TOP%20BOARD.pdf, so I wonder if it's a v2 of the board or something.
It's possible R26 and R28 are 25.5k and 0 respectively, but I don't know! I'm getting a multimeter to test a good controller soon.

Any help appreciated!

Thanks!

RDC · « **Reply #472 on:** April 18, 2021, 01:13:45 PM »

The schematic isn't supposed to look exactly like the board.

Those are R25 and R26, R28 is for the pads to the left of those there and it is not supposed to be installed, DNI in the schematic.

R25 = 25.5k
R26 = 0

If those things are fried then Q8 and Q9 are also suspect, if it's only corrosion on there then they are probably fine.

Glaucio Henrique · « **Reply #473 on:** April 21, 2021, 08:51:17 PM »

good night DRC

first I want to thank you for all the teaching you provided here,

come on, I made some mistakes trying to fix my control, I tried to make a duplicate "B button" and ended up losing the TP41 solder point, following his guidance of scraping the point below the TP41 and making a jumper to the point R29 at the bottom for "Button B" to work again and for "Additional button" to use the bottom of the R29, it worked perfectly but it passed 2 days and the "Button B" and "additional" stopped working, in the intiuto of trying to solve I ended up losing the welding point on the R29.

my doubt is there ,is a solution for "Button B" to go back to work in addition to using the R29?

RDC · « **Reply #474 on:** April 21, 2021, 09:02:24 PM »

Post an image or two of the damaged area.

Glaucio Henrique · « **Reply #475 on:** April 21, 2021, 09:53:03 PM »

Here are the photos, I don't know if the quality is good

https://ibb.co/M2z6w4j
https://ibb.co/w69dKJb
https://ibb.co/ZdrshmD
https://ibb.co/CmqDY7f

RDC · « **Reply #476 on:** April 22, 2021, 05:18:25 AM »

To get the original B button working again you will need to prep a couple of vias and solder a jumper wire between them. What I would do there is solder in a 100ohm 1/8W Resistor instead of a jumper wire, but either one will get the original B working again if done correctly. If you tear those vias up then it can still be fixed, but it will be more difficult to repair than what this is.

Glaucio Henrique · « **Reply #477 on:** April 22, 2021, 06:23:15 AM »

Thanks again for the attention RDC,

I will follow this guidance and take great care to execute it, another doubt there is still some possibility to add the "additional B Button"

RDC · « **Reply #478 on:** April 22, 2021, 07:38:59 AM »

You can use either of those spots for the additional B button, or just install a longer jumper wire and cut it in the middle and solder both ends of that to the additional B button on one side, then the other side to ground.

Glaucio Henrique · « **Reply #479 on:** April 22, 2021, 08:37:16 AM »

ust for understanding,

Follows image https://ibb.co/5BBKt18

For the operation of the original Button B, I connect the wire to the 2 red tips that you signaled.

to place the "Additional B" can I use one of the 2 red dots and connect the direct wire to the additional button, and on the other side I take the wire from the additional button and connect it to the grounding?

sorry for the insistence in the questions is that I don't want to make mistakes but

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 218936 times)