XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1797 "Elite Series 2"

[RDC]

So here we goes again. Kind of a cross between the 1708 and 1698 controllers and some other fluff in there.

1797 BUTTON BOARD TOP


1797 BUTTON BOARD BOTTOM


1797 MCU/POWER BOARD TOP


1797 MCU/POWER BOARD BOTTOM



J3/J6 Connector Pinout

1 - GND
2 - D+ USB
3 - 3.3v
4 - D- USB
5 - LED (Mode 3)
6 - GND
7 - LED (Mode 2)
8 - LED (Charge Amber)
9 - LED (Mode 1)
10 - LED (Charge White)
11 - GU
12 - SDA
13 - ~RESET
14 - SCK


TEST POINTS on BUTTON Board

DB1 - SCK (at U4)
DB2 - SDA (at U4)
DB3 - U4 pin 8

DB5 - SCK
DB6 - SDA
DB7 - U4 pin 10

P1 - USB 5v (to J2 on MCU board)
P2 - GND (to J11 on MCH board)
P3 - GND
P4 - GND


TEST POINTS on MCU/POWER Board (some)

DB1 - Status (U4)
DB2 -

DB7 -
DB8 -
DB9 -
DB10 - B
DB11 - SCK (at U13)
DB12 - SDA (at U13)
DB13 -
DB14 - LT Rumble Control
DB15 - Light Rumble Control
DB16 - LT Rumble Control
DB17 - Light Rumble Control
DB18 - RT Rumble Control
DB19 - Heavy Rumble Control
DB20 - RT Rumble Control
DB21 - Heavy Rumble Control

DB23 -
DB24 -
DB25 -
DB26 - P4
DB27 - P3
DB28 - LT Range (0v Full, ~1.75v Mid, ~0.9v Short)
DB29 - P2
DB30 - P1
DB31 - RT Range (0v Full, ~1.75v Mid, ~0.9v Short)
DB32 -
DB33 -

DB36 -
DB37 - Trigger VCC
DB38 - LT
DB39 - RT

DB40 -

DB43 - LSY
DB44 - LSC
DB45 - LSX
DB46 - RSY
DB47 - RSX
DB48 -
DB49 -
DB50 -
DB51 -

DB53 -

DB58 -

DB61 -

DB63 - RSC
DB64 -
DB65 -
DB66 -
DB67 -
DB68 -



FT3 -

FT5 -
FT6 -
FT7 -
FT8 -
FT9 - 3.3v
FT10 - Dock +
FT11 - 5v (USB)
FT12 - GND
FT13 - GND
 
FT14 - SW18
FT15 - GND
FT16 - GU
FT17 - GND

FT18 - LT Rumble
FT19 - Light Rumble
FT20 - Trigger VCC
FT21 - RT Rumble
FT22 - Heavy Rumble
FT23 - 3.3v
FT24 - AN+ (1.8v)
FT25 -
FT26 -
FT27 -


P1 - BATT+
P2 - BATT TEMP?
P3 - BATT GND
P4 - DOCK +
P5 - DOCK (??)
P6 - DOCK - (GND)


My Schematic* of the Button Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201797%20TOP%20BOARD.pdf


* Information will be updated when/if I get them scoped and/or figured out.


The Power regulation has all been moved to the bottom MCU board now and is mostly done with a BQ24250, which is the chip that was in the older version PnC packs. - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43204.0.html

The Guide button LED has the standard White LED, but also an RGB just under it now. They are all controlled with a PCA9632TK over the I2C, so just about any combination of color and brightness is possible with that layout for the Guide button color now, but that will need to be done for most thru whatever app they provide.

The buttons are still done using the PCAL6416A IO Expander like the 1708, but the button order has been moved around. The Mode button has been added (MD) and the PnC detection has been removed, as that is all handled differently now. NU (DB3 reads Lo), DR, VW, SY, LB, DU, DL, DD, NU (P17 reads Lo), A, Y, RB, X, MN, MD, NU (DB7 reads Hi)

This is with no buttons pressed, so you'd get 01111111 then 01111111 after the Read Command, or 0x7F then 0x7F




The 4 alternate buttons now used 2 boards, versus the 1 board the 1698 controller used, and there are also 2 switches per board that are used to let the MCU know where the Trigger Stop selection is at.

RT, P1, P2 BOARD TOP


RT, P1, P2 BOARD BOTTOM


LT, P3, P4 BOARD TOP


LT, P3, P4 BOARD BOTTOM


LT/RT BOARD SCHEMATIC


I'm sure this was done to keep the thing in check for those mid and short pull settings as the voltage Output of the Hall Sensor doesn't drop near as much as a full pull, so the MCU needs some way to be able to tell those mid and short pulls aren't actual mid and short pulls of the full range and that they need to be treated differently.

~1.43v NOT PULLED
~0.57v FULL PULL
~1.10v MID PULL
~1.31v SHORT PULL

Anyone curious about U1 and U2 missing from the Top board? Well your guess is as good as mine. I traced it all out, but even if you knew what ICs were supposed to go there and populated all the missing parts it still wouldn't work, as it's not tapped onto the I2C bus (no vias) like it was originally designed for. Could have been for an Accelerometer, touch sensor or something of the sort, who knows, unless you have first hand knowledge and would like to spill the beans, as well as explain why all the useless footprints were left on the board, it's anyone's guess what they were for.

[VaNDAL_UK]

Thank you.

Can we get a disassembly of the analog sticks please?

[RDC]

When I get a complete untouched controller here I can do that, meantime there's nothing stopping you from opening one up there.

[VaNDAL_UK]

Well there is the issue of not having a series 2 controller, such as yourself. However I will post pictures if I do happen to come across one.

I'm banking on the potentiometers being the same as. Will be interesting to see what comes out of china for replacement sticks.

It's also good news that the series 1 and 2 controllers are supposedly going to be compatible with the new consoles next year!

Us repair guys should be praying that the new gen consoles have HDMI ports that are made of cheese and carbon brushed potentiometers that fail and reign strong! May there be plenty for all to repair! 

[RDC]

I don't have the complete sticks here, or I'd have posted them as well. The base the cap snaps onto is screwed onto the top of the shaft, and must be heated to break the bond first or you'll wreck something. I didn't get those with this controller, so no point in half arsing that bit of it with some pics of it all and half description.

The sticks are the same footprint and 10k as the older sticks, same POTs as well, and still made by Alps.

[ndanielh]

[Samuelmorin]

Hello RDC. I have a series 2 here which after a couple of minutes of being on it starts registering the RB as pressed. Changed the rb button and still doing the same. The only thing that I can see in that line that would cause a short is R24 and D3 but I don’t want to remove any of them without being sure first. Currently I don’t have a tester in hand to test.

Would you have any idea of what would be the problem here?

[RDC]

R24 has to be there to pass the RB button press thru to U4, and it's just a jumper, so the only issue it could cause would be if it were open and then RB just wouldn't work.

Removing D3 wouldn't cause any issues, but if it were shorted then RB would be pressed all of the time. Could be it's wonky and after a time warning up and shorting, but that would be a wild card and blasting it with a bit of freeze spray (or air duster turned upside down) may or may not reveal that one.

If there is any corrosion, flux or whatever around the U4 solder joints make sure that's all cleaned up.

Does RB work fine for the couple of minutes that it's not self pressing? If it does work fine, then I'd start to suspect U4 since that's a bit of an odd issue where it's working fine and then it just up and presses itself.

You can watch the voltage on the RB line, should be around 3.3v when RB is not pressed, then drop to 0v when you press RB. The voltage may or may not change on it's own when it's doing that self press, after that you would need to toss it on the Logic Analyzer and see if you could catch it doing that on the I2C.

[Samuelmorin]

R24 has to be there to pass the RB button press thru to U4, and it's just a jumper, so the only issue it could cause would be if it were open and then RB just wouldn't work.

Removing D3 wouldn't cause any issues, but if it were shorted then RB would be pressed all of the time. Could be it's wonky and after a time warning up and shorting, but that would be a wild card and blasting it with a bit of freeze spray (or air duster turned upside down) may or may not reveal that one.

If there is any corrosion, flux or whatever around the U4 solder joints make sure that's all cleaned up.

Does RB work fine for the couple of minutes that it's not self pressing? If it does work fine, then I'd start to suspect U4 since that's a bit of an odd issue where it's working fine and then it just up and presses itself.

You can watch the voltage on the RB line, should be around 3.3v when RB is not pressed, then drop to 0v when you press RB. The voltage may or may not change on it's own when it's doing that self press, after that you would need to toss it on the Logic Analyzer and see if you could catch it doing that on the I2C.

It does work for like 2 minutes and then it goes registering the press continuously, solder joints on u4 looks okay

[Samuelmorin]

It does work for like 2 minutes and then it goes registering the press continuously, solder joints on u4 looks okay

Indeed it seemed to be D3, didn’t remove it. Just heated it a little and seems to be working fine now (for now) I’ve been using the controller for a little while now to discard any further short from it.

[Andrunin]

How do you desolder the through hole mounted parts from these boards? I want to replace a bad RB switch and it doesn't want to come off. Such an easy task on the other controllers, but on this board my desoldering pump doesn't work well and desoldering braid also doesn't suck all the solder from the holes. I tried with hot air at 380C and it's also not helping.

Desoldering from the other boards is no problem for me, but this one seems to be incredibly hard to work with. What's the cause for this and what can I do better here?

[RDC]

This board just has a lot larger ground planes and they are stitched together with a pile of vias to the ones on the other side of it, so any ground thing you go to desolder, that heat just gets pulled away from it, quick, like a heatsink.

If you're replacing it anyway, cut the old one off the board as close as you can to the PCB, then it'll be easier to heat up and remove what is left as you wont have to also heat up the part as well as the ground planes.

[Andrunin]

Thanks for the good advice. I destroyed the old switch part and tried again with higher temps. Was much easier 

I wonder why they decided to have the large heatsink ground planes. It makes a better impression quality wise, but are the chips running hot and need cooling or something. It's just a controller 

[RDC]

They're not designed to heatsink, as nothing on that top board there would generate much heat anyway, they just do since there's a lot of copper there. I'm sure some of it was done for shielding and impedance, since the antennas are up there, maybe a hair for mechanical so the PCB is stiffer, but you'd be just as well off pondering why it's Blue instead of Green, as there's no real reason other than that's just how they made it and only they know exactly why.

Also, not sure what kind of iron you're using there, but any time you get around ground or power planes like that you'll want to turn up the heat a bit. Even when the pads have thermal reliefs (connected by a few small traces versus directly all around) they still pull a pile of the heat away. Adding some flux or just a little fresh solder will help the heat from your iron get in there as well. If you're doing more of that kind of work, a larger tip on the iron will also help to get some more heat in there, and you can also always just warm up the entire PCB with a preheater, hair dryer or carefully with a heat gun so the iron doesn't have to work so hard trying to warm up everything but the one spot you're working on.

[III II III]

Hello,
I bought a rapid fire mod chip from xmod. I would like to install it on my elite series 2 controller.
They stated on their website the elite series 2 wiring instructions are not recommended and to send it in. I would like to attempt it myself.
Can you help with the soldering points?
Thank you.

Edit: If you can point out where, on the series 2 pcb,  are located
1. Positive
2. LED
3. Sync/mode
4. Negative
5. Right trigger

https://xmodelectronics.com/collections/weekly-deals/products/copy-of-30-mode-xbox-one-modchip?variant=32801404649519

[alex_steward]

Hey there,

i bought an used elite 2 controller and replaced the analog joysticks and the rb and lb buttons. After assembly i recognized the LT button only works on full range and mid range. The short range is not funcitonal. I saw a capacitor or resistor (i dont know) is broken away. Do anybody know which piece it is and what is the value:

 

[RDC]

That missing Cap isn't causing the LT issue. As long as the trace and pads are still intact it'll be fine with that missing.

Look on the LT switch board first, make sure the Resistor is on there and that SW4 is not damaged. Then make sure all 4 of the contacts for it are good on it and the motherboard.

[alex_steward]

Thanks for reply.

I measured the trace and pad and there is a passage, so it is ok i think. Then i checked the LT board and the resistor is there. I measured it and the value is 100.2Kohm. The SW4 is not damaged. I measured all 4 pins and on 2 pins there is the whole time passage. On the other 2 pins there is only passage if SW4 is pushed. Finally i stretched the 4 pins of the button board that touches the 4 pads of the LT board. But after assemble it still not works on short range. I pushed with my fingers the parts harder together so there must be a contact from 4 pins to 4 pads. But no success. Do you have any ideas?


##Edit

i reassembled a second controller and checked the LT board there and the LT board works fine. Now i know it must be a problem with the 1797 MCU/POWER BOARD. Can it also be a mechanic problem, so the LT button is not sink enough? Maybe it isnt the problem but i can see the LT button is not sinking far enough as the RT button on short range. It is a tiny range, but i am wondering how it could be so and could it be the fault.

[RDC]

Could be mechanical, if the the Magnet isn't getting close enough to the Hall sensor to change the value it wouldn't work or if the LT switch isn't pressing SW4.

[alex_steward]

I measured the hall sensors VOUT. It is 194mV. When i press the LT Trigger very little the hall sensor recognize it and the VOUT changes fast to 193mV, 192mV... and so on. I measured on J1 100.2Kohm when LT hair trigger is set to short range. Strange.

[RDC]

Hall Vout is pulsed at 125Hz, it's not a linear voltage.

[alex_steward]

Oh ok.

Could TP DB28 be helpful to identify if the voltage is correct for the different ranges?

[RDC]

It will tell you if the switches and all on the LT board are working correctly. How they are doing the actual measurement is all done inside the MCU though.

[mnaty]

anyone know of a compatible usb-c replacement for this board.  been looking for days and cant find anything.

[VaNDAL_UK]

anyone know of a compatible usb-c replacement for this board.  been looking for days and cant find anything.

I've been searching for months.

There is a metal sheild over the top of the port so that part isn't important, just the actual USB. I've asked all my suppliers and tralled AliExpress, DHGate and Alibabah nothing comes up.

Finding ones with SMD pins and long enough is a challange. The PS5 USB-C ports where out in five minutes I have a stack of those and replaced several. I'm now seeing Series controllers with mashed ports.

One company here in the UK advertises they replace them, they must be using donors.

[mnaty]

i saw the same listing from the same company. they must be or they have a private hook up.

i think we have both searched all the same resources and come up with zero return. i assume that the issue is that only the series 2 uses this usb-c and aftermarket manufacturers feel no urgency to clone due to it being a small market. however, now that xbox series x is out and those controllers are also usb-c...anyone able to verify if these are the same. if so maybe will have some replacements in the near future.

[VaNDAL_UK]

Elite Series 2 and Standard Series S|X use the same ports.

[Matdogger]

Hey Guys,

I did a repair on the left stick, fully replacing the component. For some reason, after the repair, both sticks are reading a full tilt 1.00, 1.00 on Left and -1.00, -1.00 on Right. Also both triggers are not responding now. CR14 doesn't seem to be on my MCU when compared to your board above. Curious if this is the cause or if I should test something else. I don't see any obvious integrity loss to components or passage disruption. I was very careful to replace the component without damaging anything, but i guess you never know with all the smaller components lying around.

Thanks,
Matvey

[RDC]

What does work on that thing? The voltage for the Sticks and the voltage for the Triggers both come from different Regulators, U10 and U6 respectively, but they both get their voltage from the 3.3v rail. If that had an issue nothing on there would work enough for it to even connect to anything. The MCU controls both of those Regulators, but if U10 is off and the Sticks are getting no power, then they should both be defaulting in the same direction, not one going one way and one going the other, that's odd as frig and technically impossible.

CR14 missing isn't going to effect any of those functions, but it should be on the board, especially if CR13, 15 and 16 are still on there.

If that thing was potentially knocked off, I'd start looking for other things that might also be missing or don't look right on there.

Could be the MCU would up all corrupt as a politician somehow, and is the only thing I could think of right off tata would make all of the Analog functions behave like that.

[Dockie]

Hey RDC, great work as always, your scans and schematics have helped me no end.

do you have any idea what these two components are i've circled? one is on RSC and one is on the output of RSY.