Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1797 "Elite Series 2" (Read 43983 times)

RDC · « **Reply #90 on:** May 11, 2023, 04:57:39 AM »

There are a couple of scanner types for starters, CIS and CCD. CIS are better for things that will lay perfectly flat on the scanbed, aka documents and pictures, or a bare PCB. While a CCD type will take much better scans of things that have some depth (not a lot though) to them, aka not perfectly flat things like PCBs with SMT parts on them. If you scan a PCB with components on it with a CIS type scanner, it'll look like trash and the only things that will be in focus are the things that are touching the scan bed.

You want the board as close to the scan bed as you can get it in the CCD type also, as too far away and it'll also make bad images. So removing things like connectors, thru hole components and the like is sometimes done to get the board closer to the scan bed.

Then parallel, you want to PCB as level to the scan bed as possible also. The scans here were done with the HP years back, and it was starting to give up then, but you can see some change under the Headset connector in the top image to keep the board parallel with the scan bed, then in the second image thru the hole in the PCB under J4 there you can see it again, that's stacked on the other side of the board to keep it level and balanced on the connectors so the PCB stayed parallel with the scan bed. If you did those exact scans with a CIS type scanner, the connectors would come out looking nice, but that's it. https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34543.0.html

I used to use an HP ScanJet 3570c, but after years and years of use it finally gave it up. I currently use a CanoScan 9000F Mark II for my PCB scans, and I scan them at 1200dpi. They still aren't as sharp as I'd like, but I also have no desire to sell a kidney for a scanner that will or want the hassle of setting up a photo box and taking 20 pics to get the 1 that I like, which would give you the best image, but also takes the most time IMO.

DoublesAdvocate · « **Reply #91 on:** May 11, 2023, 11:56:23 PM »

Okay perfect I think that's about everything I need to know, sounds like I'll probably have to find some dead PS3s if I really want to to justice to the larger boards but that's fine by me.
I can see old 3570c's on ebay for not too much used, was it just a case of wanting to upgrade or is the 9000F Mark II also a CCD type scanner?

RDC · « **Reply #92 on:** May 12, 2023, 03:26:44 AM »

The 9000F is CCD, or the scans in this thread wouldn't look like they do.

If the 3570c is cheap, then it's probably not going to take as nice of a scan as it did when it was new. When mine started taking garbage scans I went for a couple of used ones first, and not long after they also failed, so the 9000F was the best upgrade/replacement scanner at the time.

DoublesAdvocate · « **Reply #93 on:** May 13, 2023, 02:04:32 AM »

Ahh, okay got it.

Ovchar · « **Reply #94 on:** May 17, 2023, 05:58:15 PM »

Hey

So I've noticed that new controllers have black joysticks instead of green ones. Does anyone know which ones are more reliable? Also where do you buy replacement joysticks? I could only find them on AliExpress but im bit concerned that they could be a knock offs and won't last long. Can you recommend a seller?

Many thanks

KeptWolf769 · « **Reply #95 on:** May 24, 2023, 02:17:41 PM »

Hello everyone, my xbox elite series 2 was having major drift issues and I got both sticks replaced. My left stick works perfectly but my right stick's X axis registers only -83% to 100% so I don't get full range when I move it to the left. I have changed the sticks 2 more times but still have the same issue. what could possibly be the problem and is there a way to calibrate the right analog sticks?

RDC · « **Reply #96 on:** May 24, 2023, 02:42:46 PM »

There's no known way to calibrate them. If that's all the issue it has, take some sandpaper and lightly go around the opening in the shell to enlarge it so the stick can move farther. Alternately you can sand down the diameter of the stick where it contacts the shell so it's smaller thus it can move farther.

yoyoitsjoe · « **Reply #97 on:** June 21, 2023, 07:33:09 AM »

Hi all having some trouble with my RS replacement. Previous owner (bought from ebay) was too rough and have taken some of the contacts out of the holes and am hoping running traces is viable to get the new joystick working.
Worried about the first pic where some insulation was scratched off

Any help with where to run the traces would be much appreciated.

Thanks

bwabbit0p · « **Reply #98 on:** June 23, 2023, 12:53:10 PM »

Hey guys, I tried to replace my left joystick and I lost these two parts, board doesn't turn on. Wondering if anyone knows the measurements for them so I can possibly hunt down a replacement part? Thank you guys in advanced. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0ac5YS1e1FZUGECET06dAFJ_g

RDC · « **Reply #99 on:** June 23, 2023, 01:15:31 PM »

@ bwabbit0p - Ignore the component on the left, that one is just some kind of protection diode for the LSX line. The one on the right though is part of some voltage divider and should be on there and it's 118k Resistor.

bwabbit0p · « **Reply #100 on:** June 28, 2023, 01:31:27 PM »

Hey, happen to have any idea where I could find some? I bought some but they're too big, not sure if they'll work

RDC · « **Reply #101 on:** June 28, 2023, 03:10:36 PM »

It's 0402 (1005 Metric) size, and it should also be 1% or better tolerance. DigiKey, Mouser and the like will all have it.

Marcg5177 · « **Reply #102 on:** July 05, 2023, 11:14:56 AM »

Hello I have an elite series 2 that had drift on the left joystick, I replaced the joystick and in the process I accidentally knocked off the component on CR13 I went ahead and replaced it and now when I try to power on my controller only the top profile light turns on, no Xbox button light and it is not recognized by my Xbox or PC what could be my issue

Jimachine · « **Reply #103 on:** July 09, 2023, 03:42:53 PM »

Hi guys, I have a similar problem to Ghepardo earlier in the thread and was wondering if anyone could help me. I'm still very much learning to solder and tried to replace the left bumper switch. I fear i may have brutalized the contacts for the switch pins though.

I've had switches in and out 3 times but it's not registering any clicks. I did clumsily drop some solder on the connector at J4, but other than LB everything works fine. Is J4 anything to do with LB?

Is there anything I should test with a multimeter?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/477anqm

RDC · « **Reply #104 on:** July 09, 2023, 07:35:22 PM »

@ Marcg5177 - Replaced CR13 with what? If you just put it back on, it needs to go on the right way as it's a Diode.

@ Jimachine - Looks more like you've taken hot air to that thing. The J4 connector is out of place now and needs to be reset onto it's pads.

The plating is missing from the LB line there, the square one. J4 needs corrected first. Then you can reinstall the LB and solder the 2 bottom leads first, they just hold the switch in place. Then on the top right lead, solder it to the bottom right one, as it's the ground for the button. Use a short jumper wire if needed. On the top left (square) one, solder a short jumper wire to it, then the other side of the wire needs to go to the other side of the board, top side of R23. That should get the LB working again.

Jimachine · « **Reply #105 on:** July 10, 2023, 12:06:14 AM »

Thanks RDC, really appreciate you taking the time to help me. I did try a heat gun after getting frustrated trying to desolder. Didn't realise J4 had moved. I'll try to sort that first.

As for the wire you mentioned, what sort of diameter would you recommend? I don't have any at the moment so just looking for advice on what to buy.

Again, massively appreciate your help.

RDC · « **Reply #106 on:** July 10, 2023, 05:21:45 AM »

30awg Kynar wire is kind of the standard Magnet wire could also be used. Anything 30awg or smaller will do though. You could take a little piece of some AC cord or speaker wire and use a single strand form that, as most of those are stranded wire, just make sure it doesn't short on anything as it has no insulation on it like Kynar or Magnet wire does.

Jimachine · « **Reply #107 on:** July 10, 2023, 05:57:17 AM »

Amazing, I will get some wire and give it a go. I can't thank you enough.

Jimachine · « **Reply #108 on:** July 16, 2023, 01:11:29 AM »

Hi RDC

I managed to get some wire and successfully got my LB working again. I was not successful trying to put J4 back into position though. I got solder all over the socket and ended up breaking it when trying to clean it.

https://imgur.com/a/vbs5Nl6

It sounds like TheOnlyUmagon had a similar issue but for the other similar socket (J2). I haven't damaged the pads or trace as far as im aware though.

Do you know what this socket is for? Is it possible to do another jumper to repair this one? I imagine it will just mean that the 2 boards will be permanently attached and will need desoldering to be separated.

Or do you know the name of the component so I could try and get a replacement?

Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #109 on:** July 17, 2023, 05:43:02 AM »

It's a coax connector for one of the antennas. No idea the exact series it is, as I've never had to replace one before, and there are loads of them that all look the same, but are completely different as far as the size goes.

Jimachine · « **Reply #110 on:** July 17, 2023, 06:00:02 AM »

Awesome, thanks a lot for your help again. I can see amazon sell some connectors that i'll try.

szadon · « **Reply #111 on:** September 08, 2023, 08:15:25 AM »

Hi
Does anyone know values of those 3? Controller is turning on only when cable is plugged when I disconnect cable after turning on controller works fine on battery .

RDC · « **Reply #112 on:** September 08, 2023, 08:41:59 AM »

Left/Right are Resistors, Middle is a Capacitor. Left is 100k, Right is 100ohm, both should be 0.1% tolerance. Cap value is not critical, 1nF to 100nF will work fine there. All are 0201 size.

Resistors look alright, Cap is suspect. You can ohm check them in circuit, if they measure 100k and 100ohm they are fine. If they measure off, remove the Cap and test again.

Dudeman025 · « **Reply #113 on:** September 22, 2023, 03:57:09 AM »

Can I connect tactile switch buttons to control the rear paddles on the Elite Series 2 controller by wiring them to J19, J20, J15, and J16 (which interface with the pads J3&J4 for the back paddles)? Or, would I wire the tactile switches to the traces DB26, DB27, DB29, and DB30 for the tac switches to actuate the back paddles?

Additionally, I'm looking for information on the location of the contact points for the D-pad on the 1797 circuit board.

Thanks for any help!

RDC · « **Reply #114 on:** September 22, 2023, 05:32:08 AM »

The J or DB spots, makes no difference, going to be the same either way.

There are no really good spots for the D-pad, as that is all done over the IO Expander, schematic is on the first page. The only place to get at those is on the top board.

DU - R14
DD - R6
DR - R12
DL - R15

Either side can be soldered to as they are all just 0 ohm jumpers.

If you're making some kind of arcade stick and don't ever plan to use the original D-pad again, then you can just peel off the sticker at the D-pad there, remove the carbon coating from the center spots and solder to them. They all use ground for the common.

zztop · « **Reply #115 on:** October 26, 2023, 09:07:35 PM »

I also managed to screw up a bumper switch replacement (like a lot of others on this thread it seems like) and I'm completely stuck

https://imgur.com/a/qegkyeU

My LB is now registering always pushed, so I went looking for a short. On the working RB switch (which I didn't replace), if I apply 5v to the bottom left pin I can read it at the top left pin, but not the other way around, 5v on top left reads 0v on bottom left(???). On the LB switch, however, those both read 5v. I did expose some copper by the bottom left pin, but unless that copper's part of the top left pin's trace I can't figure out how they could be shorted. Also, as best I could tell from earlier in the thread, bottom left isn't even a live pin anyway and is only for mounting? Any ideas?

tldr LB always on and don't know why

RDC · « **Reply #116 on:** October 26, 2023, 09:58:13 PM »

You poking 5v around in there is going to do more damage, as that thing is 3.3v logic.

3 of the 4 pins for the LB there are Ground, with the bottom 2 just being for mounting. The top 2 are the LB button, right one is ground, then the left one (square pad) is the LB line. Check for too much solder at that square pad there, as the bottom left side of it looks like it could be bridging to the ground plane there.

zztop · « **Reply #117 on:** November 01, 2023, 06:13:31 PM »

Thanks, that pinout explanation was just what I needed! I found it had actually bridged on the top side which is why I couldn't find it

removed and tried again and everything's working now!

sanjua_vino · « **Reply #118 on:** November 22, 2023, 05:09:14 PM »

Quote from: RDC on September 08, 2023, 08:41:59 AM

Left/Right are Resistors, Middle is a Capacitor. Left is 100k, Right is 100ohm, both should be 0.1% tolerance. Cap value is not critical, 1nF to 100nF will work fine there. All are 0201 size.

Resistors look alright, Cap is suspect. You can ohm check them in circuit, if they measure 100k and 100ohm they are fine. If they measure off, remove the Cap and test again.

Hello, I have a problem with the 2 analog sticks of this control, they are both directed to the left and forward, but the sticks are very good and straight. After a few seconds they try to correct themselves by 0.01 msec (like a flash) and continue with this drift.
Can anyone give me information or where to purchase the schematic?

weindochnicht · « **Reply #119 on:** December 10, 2023, 08:31:17 AM »

Hi,
I need some help identifying two parts on the board. See picture:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yyeQq8ZJq2TnMU51X12_ki8UcZwnkMEV/view?usp=drive_link

I have replaced my RS on my Elite Series 2, and broke down both of them from the PCB. I have only noticed it, when pushing RS did nothing after assembly. I need to replace them.
Could you give me the type and values of the parts to be able to replace them?
Thanks for your help!

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1797 "Elite Series 2" (Read 43983 times)