DualSense 5 Controller PCB Scans

[Manavie]

My SOCD inputs are connected from the button to the SOCD chip directly thru the PCB, whats the best way to go about connecting the resistor? Can I just solder it from the pad for button input to the corresponding pin on the chip? Im not sure if that would interfere with the existing connection.

[RDC]

No idea what your setup looks like there, so no idea which way I'd go about it. Pull-Up Resistors go on your 74LVC00 button Input to 1.8v. The Outputs going to the DS5 PCB don't need anything done.

[mortal91]

Hi all,

I have an issue at the left analog stick on a BDM-010 board.



If I remove the potentiometer, I get the right diode reading at the marked point. It should be 0.5V, but after I solder a potentiometer, I'm getting 1.3 V... I don't really get it, what I'm doing wrong.

Do you have any idea what I could try? Do you know where this point leads?

Thanks in advance for your help!

[RDC]

Why are you diode testing a voltage rail?

[mortal91]

Because this site of the left analog stick doesn't work (it's constantly drifting). And I thought, this way I can check, at whitch point I get the issue. And all of the readings are fine except this one.

Update:

I desoldered the potentiometer again and did another readings. I don't get nothing (neither ohm nor diode readings) at the marked point. :\

[RDC]

That spot is the 1.8v power rail for the POTs and such. If there is no 1.8v there, then that stick would act like it was pressed left all the way, not drift.

Put a jumper wire from there to the bottom lead of the 3 at the other POT, aka connect the V spots, of that stick and retest.

Code: [Select]

   v     v

   3     3
G          G
               G
               Y
               V
G          G
  V  X  G


[mortal91]

I did that, and it works perfect now. Thank you very much!

[RDC]

Welcome.

[aufnahmen]

Has anyone seen scans of dualsense edge boards?

edit: this youtube video does show the mainboard: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfrpJM3vPzI

interesting that it doesn't seem to have a classic XXX-NNN model name on the board? Or maybe it's hiding somewhere.

[RDC]

First I've seen it, but it looks like a glorified -020. More interesting is the amount of blind vias that thing has, they have only done that on the DS4 JDM-020, then haven't used them on a DS4 or DS5 since.

[aufnahmen]

Well I can't figure out how to upload my own images, but I did get an Edge controller and confirmed that the board model number is HMB-010. It's printed underneath the thin black foam used in the speaker connector. This is expected as the Edge codename is Hunt (and standard Dualsense is Bond, hence BDM).

[Worf]

Hi the L2/R2 flex cable are they interchangeable between bdm 010 and 020?

[RDC]

Yes, but if you put the BWL-020 flex into the BWL-010 housing you'll need to trim off the little tab at the bottom of it, just under the L2/R2 button, as the housing is slightly different.

[DoubleS3ns3]

I have one question for 2 x BDM 10 controllers. Point me a direction please.

First controller, L1 /L2 not working, but R1/R2 is working. Second controller R1/R2 not working, but L1/L2 is working. All 4 x controller Triggers working perfectly, tested it with working 3rd controller. Flex cables is ok too.

When i connected first controller to PC with connected L1/L2 trigger, controller not recognised by PC, but when i disconnected L1/L2 trigger, controller is recognised by PC.
Same happened with second controller but with R1/R2 trigger.
 
After inspection under microscope everything seems ok. Problem is on motherboards somewhere or SIE chips fault ?

Hello there, i'm glad to have found this forum cause I can see here a very supportive people.
I have the exact problem for a BDM-010 and I can't understands why.
Beacause i need to create an hitbox from this, I can probably  bypass the use of the original board of L1/L2? i've found that the L1 can be triggered by using the fourth pin from the flex port on mainboard but i don't know if there is a way to trigger the L2 without the board. Thanks in advance.
 

[ZhenyaKa]

Hello again!

I have dead BDM-010.

It is not determined by the computer. The battery is not charging.


I replaced the DA9087 chip and nothing has changed.

If the main CHIP is also dead, should the battery be charging?
Are there any control points to check the charge controller?

Joystick after a hard hit

[RDC]

The PCB could be cracked somewhere, and that one is a 6 layer board.

There's no datasheet on the DA9087, but I doubt it will do much on it's own. There are 15 lines between it and the MCU, 6 of which have PU or PD on them, plenty of places for that to get messed up and cause it to not work. The MCU is also a BGA package, and if the board was bent too much or hit just right, who knows how many of those connections could be knackered.

[ZhenyaKa]

Found one missing element:

[ZhenyaKa]

The PCB could be cracked somewhere, and that one is a 6 layer board.

There's no datasheet on the DA9087, but I doubt it will do much on it's own. There are 15 lines between it and the MCU, 6 of which have PU or PD on them, plenty of places for that to get messed up and cause it to not work. The MCU is also a BGA package, and if the board was bent too much or hit just right, who knows how many of those connections could be knackered.

But at the start, there must be a voltage that powers the main chip.

From USB or battery

[RDC]

That's a 100k Resistor, it's a PU for the Reset line. That should be installed as it could cause the MCU to not start up with it missing.

There is a 1.8v standby voltage the DA9087 makes. Top side of the board, just a bit below the 2 TP spots for the USB lines is the 1.8vsb TP spot.

[ZhenyaKa]

That's a 100k Resistor, it's a PU for the Reset line. That should be installed as it could cause the MCU to not start up with it missing.

There is a 1.8v standby voltage the DA9087 makes. Top side of the board, just a bit below the 2 TP spots for the USB lines is the 1.8vsb TP spot.

AAA thanx!!! Thanx you a lot! The patient will live!!!

Detected and charging now!!!

[setdeath]

Hey there, I looked at your well detailed post but haven't seen anything related to my problem with L3.

I was changing the joystick on the left side because of stick drift and unfortunately while de-soldering I ripped a small piece in the red square which also lifted the board's green connection cable inside the yellow rectangle that I drew in the attached image. At the end, I still soldered the new stick and everything is working except for the L3 button.



I was wondering if by any chance I can solder a wire from that L3 connection to somewhere else to bridge/"repair" that broken connection. Thanks.

[RDC]

The only easy spot you get is the pad that's there on that trace. The one at the top right corner of your red square.

[Torgar]

Hello. Thanks for those scan RDC.

I'm actually in the same situation as setdeath described above: I may damage the L3 vias while replacing the left joystick.
I soldered a wire between the hole's button on the bottom to the 0201 pad you mentioned.


I'm reading 1.8V when L3 is push and 0V when L3 is released (so same behavior as R3) but L3 is still not detected (I'm using the Steam Controller tester).
Any ideas where this track is going on the board ? I may have damage something else.
Thanks

[RDC]

Over 2/3 of that trace is on an internal layer.

Last spot to get at the L3 before it goes under the MCU is this via here.

[Torgar]

I confirmed those two vias.

I'm reading the correct values on those two points (1.8V when you push L3/R3).
I've made a factory reset (through the push button on the bottom of the PCB) but nothing changed.
Then when I "Reset Device Inputs" (I didn't do it last time) on the Steam Controller Tester, now L3 is recognized !


So I guess it was just a software issue. I will test it on the PS5 later but I'm pretty confident about it.

Thanks for the help !

Edit: Working as well on the PS5

[jean9]

Ola Amigos
Algu?m tem o esquema Eletrico controle PS5 ?

[Manavie]

I greatly appreciate all the great help in this thread- I've gotten my pad-hacked hitbox controller working and made several now! I made a v2 with some small upgrades but am looking to make a v3 hopefully and was wondering if this may be the right place to ask some questions that may be pushing the scope of what I can do with the padhack. I've noticed that many pad-hacked leverless controllers have this small OLED screen that shows what inputs are being pressed as well as SOCD mode and whatnot. It seems like a cool idea, however from my understanding, to do this, I'd need to hook the inputs up to some sort of microcontroller and program the screen from there. However, most all the microcontrollers I've seen run on 3.3v logic and the DS5 has 1.8v logic. Would it be possible to use a bi-directional shifter to feed those inputs into the microcontroller?

Also, I'd like to the option to cycle through different types of SOCD cleaning in this version but needed some help so I was also wondering what are some good communities online for circuit schematic assistance? 

Thank you!

[RDC]

Most of the DS5 inputs are active Lo, that is you drive them to ground to activate them, so it doesn't really matter what logic level the micro controller runs at, as long as you don't go driving the outputs Hi. The L3/R3 are the only ones you'll need to do a little bit more with as they are active Hi buttons, but there are several ways to skin that cat. There are also micros that will work from a 1.8v source, then the display might become the bottleneck, but some of those are 1.8v logic as well.

To do what you're wanting, your micro will go between your new buttons and the controller, so there's no bidirectional communication needed, it's just buttons to micro to controller. Then your code will read those new button presses and determine which outputs of the micro to activate, and those outputs will connect to the controller and 'press' the buttons. A display is just cake decoration, an RGB LED would be more than enough to let you know what mode it was in and used for diagnostics.

Schematics aren't going to help with different 'modes', that will be all done in the code you write for the micro.

[Manavie]

Ah I see, so I would just have some PU resistors to 1.8v, and once the microcontroller reads a low, send a low to the DS5 (I'm sure its more complicated than that, but just to get a gist)?

For the L3/R3 as well as providing power to the microcontroller (I'd like it to run off the same battery as the PS5), can I use a step-up module to go from 1.8v to 3.3v, since most of the microcontrollers I see have 3.3V logic. I see that the Raspberry Pi Pico has a minimum input voltage of 1.8v but I'm not sure if I can connect the power directly from the DS5 board since its the bare minimum amount.
And my mistake, I completely forgot I can just do the SOCD from the code now, as I was doing it through the 7400 chips before.

Yeah, the screen is pretty much just embellishment, but I would also like to use my own pairing LED instead of the one on the board to have elsewhere on the frame, where would be the best places to solder the leads for that? Would I have to remove the LED that is already on the board to do this?
Thanks  !

[RDC]

It's not really much more complicated than that, setting up the micro will be more of a pain than anything else, but once you get over that hump just go thru everything in logical steps. Don't try to get every button and some screen working all at once, you'll just infuriate yourself to no end. Get yourself a bread board and make the micro blink some LED first. Then make it turn that LED on/off from a button that you wired up to it, with code that you wrote, not some demo code that already does it. Then literally after that you pretty much have the foundation for what you want to do there. Pressing a button and turning and LED on/off is really no different than pressing that button and then having it press the controller button. Getting a couple of them wouldn't be a bad idea either, as you can have one setup to do all of your dev work and testing on, then move to wiring up a controller to it for real world testing.

How the new buttons get wired up to your micro will depend a bit on what it is. A lot of them have 'weak' PU or PD Resistors built into them that you can enable on the Inputs, which are more than enough for what you're doing there, so there is no need for external ones.

There is no reason to step up the 1.8v to 3.3v as that will just add more parts and complexity to the setup. There is already a 3.2v source in there that the Touchpad runs on, and tapping onto that for a micro shouldn't be to much for it, if it needs to be run at a higher voltage. Now if it will work at 1.8v, then all the better, but you need to dig into the specs of that more, as I know that some chips that say they will work on 1.8v have a nasty secret of only running on that lower voltage AFTER they have been started up on 1.9v or more, which means that it will NOT work from a 1.8v source.

I'm guessing by pairing LED you mean you want to relocate the RGB that is already on the board there? You don't want to wire up another LED in parallel with it, as the board and everything is setup to drive that LED. Removing it and putting it on it's own board and then rewiring it to those spots would be the more correct way to go about it, but there are loads of options there. The easiest thing to do is mount your DS5 board in the new case in some way that just a hole in the thing will let the light out, that can be covered with plexi or a custom light pipe or whatever. I put the RGB into the PS button of a custom DS4 stick once, so there's lots of ways to go about that.

NOTE: Keep in mind there are currently 3 versions of this board out now, so any where to wire up this or that questions need to be specific to the version you're working with.