DualSense 5 Controller PCB Scans

[abadgamer]

hi RDC
i have a ps5 controller (bdm - 030) with broken right analog.
i changed it with ps4 analog and ps5 analog but it fully stuck AT DOWN , but right and left are good. my ls is just keep moving right and left but in a very short radius. can u help me?

[RDC]

Stuck 100% down, it's usually either the POT has no ground connection or the 1.8v side is shorted to the Wiper.

[Aroma9435]

Alps part # for the 240gf is SKRWADE030, for the 160gf SKRWAEE030

C&K, E-Switch and Wurth also make that thing, and really any of them will do the job, as long as it's not nuked while installing it.

Much appreciated! You guys are incredible, I couldn't find this in-depth info anywhere else!

[MACTEP]

@ MACTEP - I haven't seen 3 blinks before. 2 blinks means it isn't detecting the battery. What did you do to it exactly? Post pics of your board.


Initially I replaced 3Danalogs
I took it in for repairs, but they couldn't do it.
But they said there was a problem with the power controller.
I would order a controller on Aliexpress, but I don?t know how to change it?
Most likely you need a hairdryer.
Does anyone have any experience?

The master replaced the power controller for me, the charge started, the light began to blink slowly in orange, as if charging.
But after 10 minutes the same thing happens again, there is no charge, it flashes three times.
Does anyone have a diagram for the first revision?

[zis2104]

Maybe dialog 9087, or inductor o the 5 cap 10uF....check it

[MACTEP]

Maybe dialog 9087, or inductor o the 5 cap 10uF....check it

I told you that we replaced 9087.

[zis2104]

I told you that we replaced 9087.

It was used? Or AliExpress?

[zis2104]

Check resistor on connector battery, maybe them are short

[MACTEP]

It was used? Or AliExpress?

AliExpress

[zis2104]

AliExpress

Ah ...maybe is fake, I had bought a retimer for an xbox that had no video signal, but the chip was fake

[cstomi]

Hello,

I have a very strange problem. I have a PS5 controller equipped with a BDM-010 motherboard. The issue is that despite the battery is 100% charged, the MCU sees that the battery is completely discharged. I tried via Bluetooth and cable, same result.

There is a voltage divider consisting of 150K and 100K resistors at the positive terminal of the battery connector. I measure 1.664V at the output of this voltage divider with a 4.183V battery voltage. I noticed that when I turn on the controller, this 1.664V drops to around 0.6V.

I took out another properly functioning controller and measured it as well. Surprisingly, even after turning it on, I still measured 1.664V at the output of the voltage divider, so the voltage didn't drop after powering on.

What do you think could be the problem? Could the MCU be at fault? Everything else works, it just doesn't read the battery level correctly.

https://ibb.co/3hTb2hC

[RDC]

That line should be an Analog input only and not act that way, the dropping to 0v one. That trace makes a straight shot to the MCU, so it seems like it may have something really odd going on with it.

Tried holding reset for a bit? See if there is a firmware update?

[cstomi]

Thanks for the quick reply RDC! I tried RESET, but it didn't help. I can't do a firmware update because it won't allow it due to low battery capacity, even via cable.
(I tried this: https://controller.dl.playstation.net/controller/lang/en/fwupdater.html)

I checked the PCB with a thermal imaging camera to see if I could see anything strange, but I didn't see any parts heating up that would indicate a short circuit.

I did a reflow on the MCU to see if that helps, but it didn't change the situation. I finally took the MCU off the PCB to see if I could see anything underneath, but nothing. The trace from the battery connector is continuous all the way to the pad under the MCU. The pads are not damaged at all.

I really can't think of anything else but that the MCU has failed, but I find it very unlikely that everything else is working fine, the only problem is with the battery charge level measurement...

[RDC]

I'd guess it's some kind of firmware bug or a pretty rare hardware issue. Since it shows the 1.6v there while turned off, aka in standby mode, it must either be setting that pin up correctly as an input or it could just be internally disconnecting it and leaving it floating. Then when it powers up, it's setting up that pin and getting it wrong, or it could be something in the hardware of that pin causing it. A protection diode or switching FET that's gone bad in there.

If you can reinstall the MCU, I'd just inject 1.6v into that divider line and then power the thing on and see what happens. If it showed full battery, then Id' try to update it, but if it's a hardware issue in there it'll just default back to the 0.6v again.

[Samuelmorin]

Hello guys, I have 2 BDM-010 controllers that whenever you slightly press the left stick (L3) it goes all the way to the left and sometimes both stay flickering to the left, I tried RDCs previous suggestion on a similar case by jumping LSX V to LSY V but didnt work, also changed the LSX POT on both and the issue remains.

One of the two now is constantly going to the left.

Any suggestion?

Thanks in advance

[japa game house]

Estou querendo saber qual o valor do resistor que tem na placa do Dualsense BDM-020 o qual fica sozinho em baixo do anal?gico esquerdo, no finalzinho da trilha onde tem o potenci?metro que gira esquerda e direita ... foi carbonizado e n?o sei qual o valor, pois n?o encontro esquema el?trico dessa placa. Algu?m para ajudar?

[RDC]

It's a Capacitor, the exact value is not critical.

[Samuelmorin]

Hello RDC. What about my case? What would you suggest?

[RDC]

Going full left could be that POT is losing voltage or the LSX line is getting grounded or the LSX line is intermittently floating or the MCU has an issue.

[Samuelmorin]

Thank you RDC

[Samuelmorin]

Going full left could be that POT is losing voltage or the LSX line is getting grounded or the LSX line is intermittently floating or the MCU has an issue.

Hello RDC, regarding the 2 controllers I have with LSX problems, here are the outcomes:

1: BDM-010: tried everything, changing the POT, jumping Ground, jumping 1.8 to LSY (v to v points from LSX to LSY) and even jumping the LSX x signal to point as per trace on side A. Nothing worked, as soon as I turn the controller on it is constantly registering left input. This seems to be a MCU issue.

2: BDM-020: same situation here, however; this one at least registers when I move the left stick to the right, it would not register 100% to the right but at least registers something; around 60% to that direction, as soon as I stop touching the stick it would go to the left and sometimes flickers in that direction, tried jumping Ground and also V points but it remains the same, after this I changed/ soldered a new POT and it seemed to work for a couple of minutes and then the drift came back, any suggestion?

Thanks in advance

[viewrush]

Thank you always. It's a BDM-010 model, but the R2 button keeps running. What's the problem?

[cstomi]

I'd guess it's some kind of firmware bug or a pretty rare hardware issue. Since it shows the 1.6v there while turned off, aka in standby mode, it must either be setting that pin up correctly as an input or it could just be internally disconnecting it and leaving it floating. Then when it powers up, it's setting up that pin and getting it wrong, or it could be something in the hardware of that pin causing it. A protection diode or switching FET that's gone bad in there.

If you can reinstall the MCU, I'd just inject 1.6v into that divider line and then power the thing on and see what happens. If it showed full battery, then Id' try to update it, but if it's a hardware issue in there it'll just default back to the 0.6v again.

I tried what you advised. I put back the original MCU and injected 1.6V to the divider line. After that the firmware update worked, but unfortunately it didn't fix the problem.

I got a new MCU, put it on the PCB, then measured the voltage on the divide line. With the new MCU I did not experience the problem anymore, it works perfectly.

[RDC]

@ viewrush - If you mean the R2 is always pressed, then try removing this Capacitor first (bottom side of board) and retest.

[Manavie]

Hello everyone !
Glad to see the site is back, I was unable to access for a bit (unsure if it was just me).
I decided to pick up working on a controller again after a long break. I'm planning on using a Raspberry Pi Pico to interface between my inputs and the DS5 board (unsure if there is another microcontroller that can run off 3.3V that would be better for this).

The issue im having is with the pins, specifically the amount because there are only 26 GPIO pins. I have a total of 18 buttons (Directions, Shoulders, Triggers, L3,R3, and buttons like PS, Option, Share, Touch), but I also am planning on having a small OLED display just for aesthetic reasons (needs 2 pins since I2C).

I know I need at minimum 4 input pins and 4 output pins for the SOCD cleaning, but I want this OLED to show the inputs im pressing, at least for the main 12 buttons, ideally for all 18, but if not the remaining 6 can just go straight to the DS5. Does this mean I need at least 12 pins for my inputs, as well 12 pins for output, plus the 2 for the screen? Can the face, shoulder, and trigger buttons just go directly to the DS5 as well as a pin on the board at the same time since they dont need SOCD cleaning, so an extra output pin for those inputs is not needed, but I can still use it to detect input for the screen, or will that mess with the DS5's board?
Thank you!

[RDC]

8 for the D-pad, 2 for the OLED leaves you with 16 buttons you could 'read' then.

Any GPIO setup as an Input only will not mess with the DS5 board, just make sure if they have Internal Pull-Ups that they are not enabled.

[Manavie]

Ah thanks.

Another question, I'd like to keep some kind of analog stick functionality on my controller, but for what I'm trying to do the DS5 joysticks are kinda clunky and I'd like something tinier. Would it be possible to use like a PSP 3000 or Joycon joystick or something and connect the corresponding pins (Y Ax to Y ax, Gnd to Gnd, etc)? If not, what options do I have for connecting some kind of smaller L and R joystick.

[RDC]

You can make just about anything else work in there, but nothing will be a direct wire up and work perfect deal.

[Manavie]

Thank you!

Is the purpose of having it be Input only so it doesn't pull it up to the 3.3V from the MC (RP2040) and fry the DS5 board?

Another thing I thought of doing since I'm writing my own firmware, is having the controller work for PC on its own thru the MC, but also send inputs to the DS5*, as it is already doing. Currently, I have the SOCD cleaning with the 8 pins for Directionals, and 8 buttons for now in Input mode. However since it is Input instead of Input w/ pullup, the signals going to the MC on my breadboard are not working properly, although they are not also connected to the DS5 board currently. I'm assuming having them go to the DS5 board would fix this issue.

However, since I'd like it to work on it's own w/o relying on the DS5 board as well, if I PU those inputs to 1.8V using a voltage divider from 3.3v or something, would that fix it? If not, what options do I have to accomplish this.


*Ik the DS5 board can work on PC as is, but I'm more so doing this just for cheaper options as I will probably make some for my friends like I did for the last few I made.

[RDC]

The 4 Inputs that make the D-pad/Stick, the ones that will only go to the MC board, do need the PU enabled so they don't 'float' and do any weirdo stuff. Then the 4 that will be going to the DS5 D-pad spots need to be made Inputs when not used, and changed to Outputs and driven Lo when used.

That RP4020 chip needs to be looked into more, as it seems to have IOVDD pins. Unless they tied those to 3.3v on the board, you could run 1.8v to them and not really worry about shooting 3.3v into the 1.8v logic of the controller. That might wreck the OLED, depending on it's IO voltage requirements. Just a quick look at the DS, it looks like having the IO running at 3.3v means it takes 2v to be considered a logic Hi, so connected up to the DS5 that way, the thing will never be able to tell the buttons are not pressed and either 'think' they are pressed all the time or just act all goofy since that 1.8v is close to the 2v requirement.