Author Topic: XBX/XBS Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1914 (Read 72558 times)

RDC · « **on:** November 11, 2020, 06:43:31 AM »

Here we go, again..

The design on this version isn't much different than the 1708 so far, I haven't dug into it yet though. Will update TP spots and yadda yadda yadda when I get the time to poke around with all of that.

1914 BUTTON/POWER BOARD TOP

1914 BUTTON/POWER BOARD BOTTOM

1914 MCU BOARD TOP

1914 MCU BOARD BOTTOM

1914 SOC BOARD TOP

1914 SOC BOARD BOTTOM

J3/J5 Connector Pinout

1 - 3.6v
2 - GU (thru D27) Only Guide will work if J3/J5 pin 2 is used for new/alternate Guide button and the controller will not turn on. Use TP43 for a proper duplicate Guide button.
3 - 3v/B+
4 - 3.3v
5 - SCL
6 - LED Control
7 - SDA
8 - D+
9 - ~RESET
10 - D-
11 -
12 - VBUS
13 -
14 - GND

TEST POINTS on BUTTON/POWER Board (some)

TP13 - 5v USB
TP14 - DR
TP15 - DL
TP16 - DU

TP18 - SY
TP19 - LB
TP20 - RB
TP21 - A
TP22 - X
TP23 - Y
TP24 - MN
TP25 - VW
TP26 - U4p16
TP27 - CC1 (thru R55*) CC2 (thru R56*) *not installed
TP28 - LED Control

TP30 - SDA (U4)
TP31 - SCL (U4)

TP34 - 3v/B+
TP35 - 3.3v
TP36 - 3.6v (Rumble V+)
TP37 - 3.6v
TP38 - 5vA USB (after Q13)
TP39 - SH (Share)
TP40 - LED (Anode, after R5)
TP41 - LED (Cathode)
TP42 - LED Control (at Base/Gate of Q3)
TP43 - GU
TP44 - DD

TEST POINTS on MCU Board (some)

FT1 - GND
FT2 - GND

TP5 - VBUS

TP7 - 3.6v (Rumble V+)

TP9 - 3.3v

TP21 - GND
TP22 - GND

TP24 - GND

TP26 - GND
TP27 - LT MOTOR+
TP28 - HEAVY MOTOR+
TP29 - RT MOTOR+
TP30 - LIGHT MOTOR+
TP31 - SDA2
TP32 - SCL2
TP33 - SDA
TP34 - SCL
TP35 - ~RESET
TP36 - AN+ Enable

TP41 - B (thru R29, 100ohm)
TP42 - LSC (thru R16, 33ohm)
TP43 - RSC (thru R21, 33ohm)

TP49 - TRG+ 3.2v, 125Hz, 17% Duty (Hall Sensor VCC)
TP50 - TRG+

TP54 - MIC

TP63 - LSY
TP64 - LSX
TP65 - RSY

TP67 - RT
TP68 - LT

TP103 - AN+
TP104, TP105, TP106 & TP107 - HEAVY MOTOR & LT MOTOR CONTROL
TP108, TP109, TP110 & TP111 - LIGHT MOTOR & RT MOTOR CONTROL
TP112 - RSX

My Schematic* of the Button/Power Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201914%20TOP%20BOARD.pdf

My Schematic* of the MCU Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1_1914_BOTTOM_BOARD_SOME_VALUES.pdf

My Schematic* of the SOC Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1_1914_SOC_SOME_VALUES.pdf

SOC Board Designators TOP - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XBX/1914/1914_SOC_TOP_DESIGNATORS.jpg
BOTTOM - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XBX/1914/1914_SOC_BOTTOM_DESIGNATORS.jpg

SOC Board Pinout - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XBX/1914_SOC.txt

* Information will be updated when/if I get them scoped and/or figured out. NOTE: The MCU Board values are not currently in the schematic. The thing seems to be pretty similar to the 1708 and most of those values should match up.

wickated · « **Reply #1 on:** November 11, 2020, 01:52:23 PM »

mediatek now in microsoft gamepads

btw very clean board, more complex power line, wifi 5+2,4 ghz both for backward compatibility. dpad clicks but its same membrane type. one design problem to actually fix - analog joy pushbutton rotated to top(forward) side for less pressure and wearing on dualsense but not here.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 12, 2021, 05:34:33 PM »

Hey RDC, can I please ask u to double check the test point for left trigger (LT)? U have it as TP 104 on the mcu board. I just did button duplication on a 1914 board set and everything works great except LT. I just get nothing from it on the accessory test screen.

Solder looks good and I double checked a bunch of other things. Just hoped it's something I am missing. Ty in advance.

RDC · « **Reply #3 on:** February 12, 2021, 05:44:18 PM »

It's the TP spot under where TP104 is marked. Which is probably really TP68, given that RT is TP67, so that will be changed. Use the spot to the left of TP68 for LT.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 12, 2021, 05:50:20 PM »

Cool, ty. I kinda thought it might be like that cause the test points are kinda wonky in that area. And the numbering seemed weird for LT.

Resoldering after dinner and I will confirm it works. Thanks for the fast response.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 12, 2021, 06:09:31 PM »

Yep, that's the one. Can confirm TP68. Thank you.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 14, 2021, 12:07:35 PM »

Also, a weird question about a possible test point or solder spot on the 1914 where I could run a line to power a guide button duplication led?

Background info: this for my new 1914 arcade controller and I am considering an idea to finish off the controller by using functional artwork, in a way. I am going to use the gutted shell of the x/s controller to incorporate my usb c extension and expansion port extension cables back into the empty shell, then mounted on the exterior of the arcade controller. Also, I would love to finally incorporate a Xbox guide led duplication into this shell. So, when I power on the arcade controller, the xbox controller shell on the outside would have a functional guide button light. This could either be just a solid light, indicating controller is just on/off. Or, depending on complexity, a true guide button led duplication with flashing indicators and all (sync flash and such).

Thanks for any ideas. I know u haven't dug into this board set as much, but since it's pretty much like the 1708, I thought you might have some ideas.

RDC · « **Reply #7 on:** February 14, 2021, 12:22:14 PM »

Use TP41 on the Button/Power Board for the Cathode side of your new LED. Anode side of the LED will go to the correct value Resistor for your new LED, then to TP37.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 14, 2021, 12:36:45 PM »

Thanks! Doesn't sound too bad. Would really finish off the controller to replicate the guide led.

So, just to make sure I understand, from the anode side of new led I will add a resistor inline of the same value as the new led before going from the resistor to tp37?

Lastly, I don't know much about what led to use. Any suggestions/links for a simple led I can clear epoxy into an empty guide button shell? Or, I do have a couple old controller board sets on hand. 360 set and my test 1708 set. I could maybe scavenge from that?

RDC · « **Reply #9 on:** February 14, 2021, 12:57:19 PM »

The Resistor you install will need to be rated for whatever current the new LED needs.

Just about any LED will work, as long as it can be driven by 3.6v or less, as the TP37 is a 3.6v source.

If the LED is rated at 3.3v and 10mA, then the Resistor would be around 30ohm in value.

If you don't know the LED ratings, then always start with a higher value Resistor and work your way down until it lights up and looks decent, not blinding. Preferable to have a couple of the same type of LED so if you wind up going too low and frying it you can go back.

https://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/ledcalc.php

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 14, 2021, 01:04:53 PM »

I just removed the guide led from the old 1708 board. Do you have an id on that led? Don't see any markings under 10x.

RDC · « **Reply #11 on:** February 14, 2021, 01:08:22 PM »

No idear, just use an 80 ~ 100ohm for that one.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 14, 2021, 02:45:12 PM »

Thank you for all the info, think I can take it from there. Last thing, will this flash like the guide or just be on/off with the controller powered on/off?

RDC · « **Reply #13 on:** February 14, 2021, 02:49:08 PM »

It will do exactly what the onboard LED does.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 14, 2021, 09:21:31 PM »

Perfect!! I could use the 1708 board led, but decided LEDs are cheap and I have some 3mm round LEDs on the way. I can try some different colors this way too. Blue is catching my eye right now and would mean a 20 ohm resistor thanks to that calculator link u sent. I can do the math, but it's nice to just plug it all in. Thanks.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 26, 2021, 09:46:55 AM »

Guide button led duplication works great!! Thank you for the info. Test pic below. New duplicate blue led kinda hard to see, but its glowing in the solder vice.

Arcade box arrives tomorrow and I am going to put it all together over the weekend.

bakachelera · « **Reply #16 on:** July 24, 2021, 11:19:31 PM »

Thank you very much.
I just got my hands into one of these, but a previous repair attempt got its right stick pads destroyed. hopefully with this I can reconstruct this PCB.
Is the potentiometer value still 10k ohm?

RDC · « **Reply #17 on:** July 25, 2021, 01:49:28 AM »

Yes.

bakachelera · « **Reply #18 on:** August 08, 2021, 06:08:33 PM »

I have a question.
When I test voltages on sticks I get 1.7 at every positive side.
Is it supposed to be a pwm? I don't have a scope, and I'm trying to get new power lines and new LSX and LSY for this particular series controller, and I can't figure out where to get power for these.
thanks in advance fellas.

RDC · « **Reply #19 on:** August 08, 2021, 07:45:27 PM »

The AN+ (Analog Voltage) is 1.8v for the XB1 controllers. It is not PWM, there is a 1.8v Linear Regulator (U8) that makes the AN+ from the 3.3v rail for the Sticks.

bakachelera · « **Reply #20 on:** August 08, 2021, 08:32:53 PM »

Quote from: RDC on August 08, 2021, 07:45:27 PM

The AN+ (Analog Voltage) is 1.8v for the XB1 controllers. It is not PWM, there is a 1.8v Linear Regulator (U8) that makes the AN+ from the 3.3v rail for the Sticks.

I see! thank you so much. I got the idea that it was 3.3 I think from another controller or something.
maybe joycon pro I don't remember. As I can see these controllers are easier to mess up everything with a bad soldering technique.

STIVIX · « **Reply #21 on:** November 16, 2021, 09:52:35 PM »

Hey guys, I did a hard remap on DL and DR on the 1914 board and now its acting pretty sporadic. I've had similar problems before, specifically duplicating the d pad buttons on older models. The controller will sometimes act ok for a few minutes but then starts triggering two or even three inputs at a time. Its pretty inconsistent on what buttons it will signal. I have a feeling its the U4 chip but is there anyway to test it before I attempt to reflow it?

RDC · « **Reply #22 on:** December 12, 2021, 02:28:47 PM »

Undo whatever you did in there first and see how it acts.

robbayani · « **Reply #23 on:** December 14, 2021, 05:07:12 AM »

my friend controller series is dead because droping around 1meter high.. i open it, seems solder is broken..
is easy to fix??
i'll attach picture later

Worf · « **Reply #24 on:** December 17, 2021, 04:27:17 AM »

Hi. I need your help.

During the right analog stick replacement, I knocked off C23. Following the trace it goes to the expansion port. Controller is working fine. Can you tell me the value of the capacitor and can I take it from previous models? like the 1537/1708 controllers.

RDC · « **Reply #25 on:** December 17, 2021, 04:52:41 AM »

That trace is the RSY line, it just runs under the expansion port. C23 is just a decoupling cap on that line, you'll never really notice it missing. It's 10nF, 0201 size, anything 4v or more will work if you want to replace it.

atarisoul · « **Reply #26 on:** December 18, 2021, 07:36:57 AM »

Hello. I'm trying to repair a botched left stick repair.

Looking at the top of the board it looks like c24 is missing and pad damaged around the middle pin hole which is LSX I think.

Any help would be much appreciated

Thanks

DarkKnight55 · « **Reply #27 on:** December 18, 2021, 02:11:51 PM »

Hello RDC would you happen to know what the device U1 is on the power board. Its the small 6 pin package. The markings are AXMM 131 from what I can make out. Ive had a scout online for the device but cant track it down. Thanks for all your great information.

RDC · « **Reply #28 on:** December 18, 2021, 04:54:06 PM »

@ atarisoul - Bottom side of the board, jumper wire from the middle lead of that POT to TP64.

@ DarkKnight55 - U1 is an MP1476LGTF

atarisoul · « **Reply #29 on:** December 20, 2021, 11:28:57 AM »

Quote from: RDC on December 18, 2021, 04:54:06 PM

@ atarisoul - Bottom side of the board, jumper wire from the middle lead of that POT to TP64.

Thanks @RDC i have got the left thumbstick working....THANKS

However, I cannot get the L3 button to work. I have tested continuity and the 2 pins near the gnd board edge are OK, when I test the inner pins with the gnd pins there's no connection, when button pressed I get a connection. Thats what I expected as the button completes the circuit.

I have tried to find a test point but I can't work it out

Thanks in advance

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Author Topic: XBX/XBS Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1914 (Read 72558 times)