Author Topic: XBX/XBS Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1914 (Read 72581 times)

HyperMax · « **Reply #90 on:** September 28, 2022, 02:39:12 AM »

Unfortunately, still have shorts to ground on marked pins. Tried to take off those capacitors, but still shorts. Is it means dead cpu? Could reball help?

RDC · « **Reply #91 on:** September 28, 2022, 03:04:00 AM »

All of those caps are on the 3.3v rail, and there are a lot of those and other things on the 3.3v rail. You need to inject 3.3v on the rail in there and see what is getting hot. Thermal camera works best for that, but a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol will also find what is getting warm in there first.

Nick_Sparkle · « **Reply #92 on:** October 07, 2022, 03:28:35 AM »

i like to repair the controllers but im stumped with a couple i have had of this model for some time now that i have bought broken. botched repairs of the stick have been done,ie burnt pads on the potentiometr holes, ive replaced with new, ran jumpers to the correct tp links as well as the other points on the stiick (cross checking with a known working one in continuity mode) all sees fine, but the stick still pionts diagnal? I would really appriciate any help to get these working again. Many thanks in advanve for any advice

RDC · « **Reply #93 on:** October 07, 2022, 05:20:13 AM »

If the stick is stuck in the up/left position, then it has no 1.8v getting to it or both axis are shorted to ground.

Nick_Sparkle · « **Reply #94 on:** October 07, 2022, 08:35:14 AM »

Thank you for the reply. Is there any way I can rectify that?

RDC · « **Reply #95 on:** October 07, 2022, 12:59:13 PM »

First verify that's the issue. Then just jumper wire the 1.8v to one of the 'dead' POTs and see how many start working again.

The 1.8v is AN+, TP103 on the bottom board. But TP103 might not have the 1.8v on it, depending on what might be broken and where. That 1.8v comes from U8p1 on the top side of the bottom board, and it gets it's power from the 3.3v rail, and it gets told to turn on by the MCU. If any of the stick axis are working then you at least know that U8 regulator is working, could just be that 1.8v might not be getting to all of the POTs.

It's not the exact same, but it's laid out a lot like the 1708 version board, and some of that schematic is very similar.

Nick_Sparkle · « **Reply #96 on:** October 08, 2022, 06:48:56 AM »

Wonderful , I?ll give that a whirl . Thank you again for your time

Portu40 · « **Reply #97 on:** October 25, 2022, 03:22:12 AM »

Quote from: vektro3 on June 30, 2022, 04:42:36 AM

Hello guys,

i have a strange problem..... when i plug any antenna cable in connector of black circle then T2(in red circle) is getting shorted and hot so it stops working....

Any idea how can i fix it? I suspect ARM....

Controller is working with antenna's connector unplugged J2 but it cant be connected wirelessly....

Good morning Last night I was looking at a controller with a similar problem but found that the short is in the line on the button board. this afternoon I will take a good look at the board and I will tell you if I could solve it when I connect that cable to the MCU board the control stops working

Portu40 · « **Reply #98 on:** October 26, 2022, 03:04:02 PM »

I have changed that component from a donor board and now it works correctly

Silliboi85 · « **Reply #99 on:** November 07, 2022, 09:30:47 PM »

When I was replacing the y axis potentiometer on the left stick I think I must of ripped the solder pads out of all three holes is using jumper wires possible and if so where do they go? the middle pin goes to the tp63 right?

RDC · « **Reply #100 on:** November 07, 2022, 09:55:29 PM »

Correct, TP63 is LSY. The other 2 are just power and ground and can be jumpered over from the LSX POT.

Silliboi85 · « **Reply #101 on:** November 07, 2022, 10:49:25 PM »

awesome thank you i thought it would be way more complicated than that:)

Nick_Sparkle · « **Reply #102 on:** November 08, 2022, 11:42:54 AM »

the J2 cable is damaged on a controller i have bought. what is this for please and will the controller still work correctly if this is not attached? can i just solder another one on there from a donor board if need be, or is this not going to be possible? thank you for your help

RDC · « **Reply #103 on:** November 08, 2022, 01:31:29 PM »

It's the coax cable for one of the antennas. If you just use the thing wired then you can leave it, but if you use it wireless then it needs to be replaced. You can use a cable/connector from another board, provided it's long enough.

Nick_Sparkle · « **Reply #104 on:** November 09, 2022, 12:10:28 PM »

thank you once again

RDC · « **Reply #105 on:** November 09, 2022, 02:23:49 PM »

Welcome.

Dim4eG_By · « **Reply #106 on:** December 14, 2022, 03:55:05 PM »

Hey admin!
I have an issue with gamepad (1914). When I plug in the gamepad, it immediately starts switching quickly between, for example, game shortcuts. However, in the gamepad tester at this moment, everything is fine with the left stick, with no movements. BUT at the same time, two triggers are pressed constantly.

RDC · « **Reply #107 on:** December 14, 2022, 04:03:41 PM »

Triggers get their power from U9, top side of the bottom board, make sure it's still there and no components around it are knocked off or no board damage there.

Dim4eG_By · « **Reply #108 on:** December 15, 2022, 01:12:49 AM »

As I can see, everything is OK. There is a missing C322. Does it affect the operation of the Hall sensor?
Also, there is something orange under Q9. Could it be related?

RDC · « **Reply #109 on:** December 15, 2022, 02:15:36 AM »

No idea what orange thing you are seeing or where.

C322 is on the LSY line, not going to make the Triggers act that way and not going to hurt anything else being gone.

Plug it up with a USB cable and check the voltage on pins 1 and 2 of both Hall sensors. Put the black lead on some ground spot or use pin 3 for ground.

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Dim4eG_By · « **Reply #110 on:** December 15, 2022, 02:30:23 AM »

1 pin: 0 V
2 pin: ~0.06 V

RDC · « **Reply #111 on:** December 15, 2022, 02:42:27 AM »

Something is up with U9, or you have a bad U10 or U11, or there is a bad capacitor in that circuit somewhere. C32, C33, C35 and C37 are all on the Trigger VDD line, and any of them being shorted could cause that. Around U9, C3 being shorted could cause it, and also check the values for R38 (0ohm) and R40 (10k) to make sure nothig has gone out of spec or open there.

You would need a scope to see if the MCU is turning U9 on/off properly, and even getting at that thing without some kind of test board adapter or soldering up a pile of wires isn't possible anyway.

Dim4eG_By · « **Reply #112 on:** December 15, 2022, 03:01:58 AM »

Capacitors are not shorted.

R38: 0.8 Ohm
R40: 99.8 Ohm (200k on the multimeter, not sure what number should be)

Dim4eG_By · « **Reply #113 on:** December 15, 2022, 03:53:49 AM »

Also:
R40: 0.45 V
R38: 0.48 V (I'm not 100% sure)

RDC · « **Reply #114 on:** December 15, 2022, 04:03:30 AM »

Check the voltage on TP113, if it's around 0.4v then the MCU is probably telling U9 to turn on, and then I'd suspect U9 is bad if there are no other issues.

Dim4eG_By · « **Reply #115 on:** December 15, 2022, 04:09:17 AM »

I'm sorry, but I do not know how I should do this. I'm not good at measurements in such cases.

RDC · « **Reply #116 on:** December 15, 2022, 04:24:44 AM »

So you just made a DC measurement on R38 and R40, and can't do the same on TP113? Controller connected with USB cable. Meter on DC voltage, black lead on ground, red lead on TP113.

Dim4eG_By · « **Reply #117 on:** December 15, 2022, 04:32:45 AM »

Thank you, I thought it was a different way to measure.

It's about 0.45V.

RDC · « **Reply #118 on:** December 15, 2022, 04:41:12 AM »

You can remove U10 and U11 and see if the output of U9 comes back up (TP49 or TP50, both are on same trace and are the same as checking the voltage pin 1 of the Hall) and if it does come back up then U10 or U11 is bad, if it does not then U9 is most likely bad.

Dim4eG_By · « **Reply #119 on:** December 15, 2022, 02:11:22 PM »

If I measured correctly, then V = 0.03.

Oh, I think, it's 0V on R38.

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Author Topic: XBX/XBS Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1914 (Read 72581 times)